Australian Climbing Associationz

Access Issues

Access to climbing areas throughout Queensland and across Australia is without doubt the single greatest issue facing climbers. Climbing access is a priviledge, not a right and in many areas climbing access is probited, has been withdrawn or is under threat.

To develop, regain and preserve access for climbing, it is absolutely critical that all climbers work together as part of a positive, responsible and cohesive community. As a first step, join the ACAQ or the peak climbing body in your state, a well-supported representative body allows strong relationships to be built with land managers

Howard Smith Wharves

History/Status:
Climbed on since at least the 1960s, known by various names including the new farm cliffs

Climbing has never been formally allowed and access is currently specifically prohibited.

The entire site is currently undergoing redevelopment by the Brisbane City Council into a parkland with boutique office space, commercial premises and cafes.

The ACAQ has formed a committee to lobby for climbing access on the site and to work with council on how this could be implemented. It is likely that we'll need to hold a large public liability insurance policy in order to see this cliff made available to climbers, currently our limited membership base may make this prohibitively expensive, so the first thing you can do to help is to join the ACAQ. Additionally we're looking to expand the howard smith wharves subcommitee. If you have experience in writing risk management documentation, a good understanding of sport climbing and good interpersonal skills please contact the ACAQ secretary

ACAQ Involvement
ACAQ successfully lobbied the Brisbane City Council to see Climbing incorporated into the redevelopment.
ACAQ worked hard to help the BCC geotechnical engineers balance the need to stabilise the site with the desire to retain climable features
As vegetation removal was undertaken, the ACAQ campaigned to see the planned area for climbing use expanded further to the north west.

Expected future works
ACAQ will be working with BCC to see top-anchors installed across the portion of the site where top-access is feasible
Brisbane City Council has expressed that they would like to move to a formal structure to manage the selection, placement, management and replacement of fixed hardware. It is likely that ACAQ will be required to develop the required processes and have them adopted by council before the site will be opened for climbing
Furthermore Brisbane City Council is unlikely to wish to take on the responsibility for such activities. So the ACAQ may be required to operate, fund and insure the processes which are put in place.

Climbs:
A true sister crag to Kangaroo Point. 22-25 metre high brisbane tuff cliffs in a former quarry site. Vertical face climbing on a variety of blocky features.

What you can do:

• Join the ACAQ
• Join the ACAQ Howard Smith Wharves subcommittee, email the secretary to offer your support